tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-75649635235594903642024-03-21T18:23:49.076+01:00RC-Nachtflug-BlogDieser Blog beschäftigt sich ausschließlich mit dem Thema "RC Nachtflug" und versucht dieses von so vielen Perspektiven wie nur möglich zu "beleuchten"Steppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.comBlogger39125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7564963523559490364.post-32623783441310223872018-06-22T07:23:00.003+02:002018-06-22T07:30:53.068+02:00www.WirelessLightOrgan.comSeit langer Zeit habe ich ein neues Projekt am laufen, dass sich auch mit dem Thema "Eigenbau Beleuchtung" beschäftigt, schaut doch mal vorbei unter:<br />
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<a href="https://www.wirelesslightorgan.com/">https://www.wirelesslightorgan.com</a><br />
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Viele Grüße<br />
StefanSteppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7564963523559490364.post-15632976539367904372014-04-06T07:49:00.000+02:002018-06-11T10:42:07.431+02:00RGB - Grafik - Rotorblätter von Krzysztof KuczekKrzysztof Kuczek hat Grafikrotorblätter mit RGB-LEDs entwickelt schauen richtig cool aus :-)
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/zh1QPmVZK1A" width="560"></iframe>Steppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7564963523559490364.post-18499916606343331652013-11-14T08:34:00.004+01:002014-04-06T07:47:27.184+02:00mCPX - Microheli - NachtflugNachtflug geht auch mit Microhelikoptern. Besonders gut nach der Zeitumstellung, wenn man keine Halle hat. Einfach nach der Arbeit im dunkeln vor die Tür gehen und eine Runde drehen. Warum eigentlich nicht :D ? <br />
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Die LED-Rotorblätter werden mit über den Flugakku versorgt. Eine Anschlussleitunge (Pluspol) geht durch die hohle Hauptrotorwelle nach unten und dort auf einen Schleifkontakt. Die Zweite Anschlussleitung (Minuspol) ist an die Rotorwelle selbst angeschlossen, welche wiederum unten über einen Schleifkontakt an den Minus des Akkus angeschlossen ist. Quelle: <a href="http://helifreak.com/showpost.php?p=4874223&postcount=18">NACHTFLUGBLÄTTER</a><br />
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<br />Steppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7564963523559490364.post-67244174444921762612013-10-28T12:55:00.002+01:002013-10-28T12:55:59.554+01:00Text-LED-Blades von TOMPOD Der User TOMPOD hat weitere Rotorblätter gebaut. Diesmal mit Textausgabe. Ich finde sie super :-)<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/wkIm6v5FHj4" width="560"></iframe>Steppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7564963523559490364.post-69023482284094845812013-09-22T23:20:00.000+02:002013-10-02T15:06:28.101+02:00DX7s - HintergrundbeleuchtungDa meine Funke keine LCD-Hintergrundbeleuchtung hat und das beim Nachtfliegen sehr unpraktisch ist, habe ich nachgerüstet. Natürlich in RGB mit einem kleinen selbstgebauten Controller.<br />
Leider sind die Fotos nicht so toll geworden aber habe ein kleines Video gemacht wo man erahnen kann wie toll es in der Wirklichkeit aussieht :)<br />
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Das Modul kann man wunderbar zwischen das originale LCD und dessen Steuerplatine schieben, man muss es nur mit etwas Klebeband festmachen. Die Kontakte habe ich noch mit etwas Isolierband isoliert. Das Modul gibt es zum Beispiel bei Reichelt.de Artikel: EA LED68X51-RGB<br />
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<li class="av_propview_headline" style="font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold; padding-top: 15px;"><span style="background-color: black;">Maße</span></li>
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<li class="av_propvalue" style="display: block; width: 500px;"><span style="background-color: black;">68,0 mm</span></li>
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Steppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7564963523559490364.post-3121127346278002392013-09-08T17:47:00.002+02:002013-09-22T05:24:32.328+02:00Helimasters 2013 - NördlingenWar ein ziemlich geiles Event. Vor allem natürlich die Nachtflugshow war genial. Diesmal hab ich auch teilgenommen, und es lief eigentlich alles super, bis auf dass ich irgendwie ausversehen mit der niedrigen Drehzahl geflogen bin, 1600rpm anstatt 2200rpm, was ich eigentlich gar nicht wollte. Rainbows gingen dann halt irgendwie kaum und TicTocs ebenfalls, da hat einfach Drehzahl gefehlt. Hab es zu spät gemerkt, aber egal ich habs so durchgezogen. Es war aber ziemlich geil vor so vielen Leuten zu fliegen, nächstes Jahr komm ich wieder ;-)<br />
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Hier ist ein Video aufgetaucht von meinem Nachtflug:<br />
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Auf der Heimfahrt hatten wir um Mitternacht auf der Autobahn noch eine Panne. War aber schnell gewechselt der Reifen ;-)</div>
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<br />Steppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7564963523559490364.post-14000804681236833532013-08-05T11:45:00.005+02:002013-08-29T08:54:33.383+02:00Dietzenbach 2013 - NachtfliegenDas Dietzenbach 2013 - Nachtfliegen war kurz gesagt...<br />
Viele Piloten, großes tolles Publikum, tolle Küren, super Beleuchtungen, nette Flugleitung, toller Verein, schöne Musik, leckeres Essen, gute Bewirtung, super durchdacht, tolle live Band, super räumliche Aufteilung von Zuschauer&Pilotenbereich! Einfach ein tolles Event. Ein riesen Dank an die Verantwortlichen und die vielen Helfer, ich hoffe es hat der Vereinskasse ein bischen was gebracht.<br />
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Besonders gefallen hat mir Eric Ehrstein, der Nachtflug war wirklich Gangnam Style ! Thomas Wannemachers Nachtflugheli fand ich auch super, der sah so Skelettmäßig aus und ist zu einer sehr gruseligen Musik geflogen, echt cool gemacht :) Sven Skatulla hat sich neben der einfachen Beleuchtung des Helis einiges einfallen lassen, das war klasse.<br />
Aber auch alle anderen die ich jetzt nicht namentlich erwähnt habe, waren einfach schön anzusehen, und jeder einzelne hat sich seinen Applaus redlich verdient! Toll, dass sich so viele Piloten getraut haben vor Publikum zu fliegen! Ich hoffe diese Nachtflugpiloten sind nächstes Jahr wieder da, dass wir den Leuten wieder so eine Show bieten können. Schade um Georgs Heli der leider abgestürzt ist, das kommt leider vor, Kopf hoch, die Kunstflüge am Tage zusammen mit Thomas waren echt genial !<br />
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Meine Frau hat durch Zufall ein Video von meinem Nachtflug gefunden.</div>
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Ich muss sagen, dass ich die Kür nur ein paar mal am Simulator üben konnte und dann zwei mal</div>
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am hellen Tag mit dem Modell. War im ersten Moment sehr überrascht wie ungewohnt es doch war bei Nacht zu fliegen, vor allem weil die Helibeleuchtung genau mit der Musik gedimmt wurde. Dachte mir nur, ich hätte es vielleicht doch nochmal bei Nacht vorher üben sollen, :-) denn viele Dinge der Kür waren dann doch nicht ganz so gelaufen wie eigentlich geplant, konnte es aber sehr gut "wegimprovisieren" :-D </div>
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Ingesamt haben alle gesagt, man hätte es nicht gemerkt und alles sah sehr durchdacht aus. Insofern bin ich ganz froh. Der Flug an sich kam sehr gut an, und das freut mich natürlich am meisten, denn ich hab ja nur für das Publikum diesen Aufwand betrieben :-D Ein großer Dank geht an C.Kolb, der beim Bau der Helibeleuchtung auch eine tragende Rolle gespielt hat. Ich freu mich auf nächstes Jahr in Dietzenbach und auf die Heli-Masters in Nördlingen am 07.09.2013!</div>
Hier das Video von meinem Nachtflug:<br />
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Das ist nicht mein TDR sondern von einem ein netten Junger Mann, hab mich kurz mit ihm darüber unterhalten. Leider weiss ich den Namen nicht mehr, vielleicht mag er ja ein Kommentar hinterlassen, falls er das liest.</div>
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Meine Frau und ich, unser Sohnemann leider nicht mit drauf...</div>
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Alles fertig machen zum Nachtflug :</div>
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Hier ein paar Fotos von meinem Heli fotografiert durch Christian:</div>
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Hier Fotos von Tobias:</div>
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Hier ein paar Fotos von meinem Nachtfluggürteltier, wie es Jan genannt hat, der die Fotos geschossen hat. Vielen Danke für die tollen Bilder, Jan :-) </div>
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der Voodoo 600 von Jan-Peter, mit tollen Eigenbau-LED-Rotorblättern:</div>
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Ein T-Rex 600 Pro</div>
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<br />Steppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7564963523559490364.post-85920282660360655232013-07-26T07:43:00.005+02:002013-07-26T08:32:41.499+02:00Heli-Masters 2013 - Nördlingen - PilotenlisteIch steh auf der Pilotenliste der Helimasters 2013. Werde am Nachtflug und am Funfly teilnehmen. Freue mich schon riesig auf die Veranstaltung.<br />
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<a href="http://www.heli-masters.com/de/piloten/">http://www.heli-masters.com/de/piloten/</a><br />
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<br />Steppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7564963523559490364.post-79579767036017897802013-06-30T10:04:00.000+02:002013-08-29T08:57:01.519+02:00RGB - BUS - PlatinenHabe zusammen mit einem Freund ein paar Platinchen in China fertigen lassen. Wir haben der Firma die Layoutdateien gesendet und heraus kamen schöne Leiterplatten zum kleinen Preis. SEEDStudio.com heißt der Hersteller. Die Platinen sollen universell einsetzbar sein, um RGB-LED-Bänder anzusteuern. Eine Platine ist der Master, er führt die Berechnungen für RGB-LEDs durch und sendet diese Daten dann Seriell über einen Daten-Busan die Slave-Platinen, die alle in Reihe dahinter hängen. Jeder Slave steuert bis zu 30 Ausgänge, also 10 RGB Kanäle. In meinem derzeitigem Projekt, einer RGB-Matrix für unser Wohnzimmer, sollen ein Master und 5 Slaves zum Einsatz kommen, also insgesamt 54-RGB Kanäle angesteuert werden. In den Heli kommt das dann nächstes Jahr auch ;)<br />
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<br />Steppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7564963523559490364.post-43846347425600586392013-06-06T08:05:00.001+02:002013-06-06T19:36:36.686+02:00Heli-Masters 2013 - AnmeldungHabe mich vor ein paar Tagen zum Heli-Masters Nightfly in Nördlingen angemeldet. Ich habe da so ein paar Ideen für eine richtige Show :-) Aber erstmal muss ich hoffen, dass ich überhaupt einen Startplatz bekomme :-) Gruß Stefan<br />
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<br />Steppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7564963523559490364.post-53683727620502988662013-06-03T14:20:00.000+02:002013-06-03T14:20:13.444+02:00LED-Rotorblätter von TOMPODEin gewisser User namens TOMPOD hat, ähnlich wie ich es tue, seine LED-Blades durch einen µController angesteuert. Allerdings schaltet er nur standard LEDs ein/aus, ich mache das in verschiedenen Farben (RGB)<br />
Trozdem interessant...<br />
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<span style="text-align: start;">Hier ist meine Variante zu finden: </span><a href="http://rc-nachtflug.blogspot.de/2013/03/rgb-led-rotorblatt-simulator.html">RGB-Rotorblade-Simulator</a></div>
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Steppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7564963523559490364.post-2058837639423249612013-05-13T09:08:00.001+02:002013-05-13T09:08:24.944+02:00RGB - Grafik - Rotorblätter von WernerWerner hat fleißig weiter an seinen Grafik-Rotorblättern gearbeitet. Was er mittlerweile in den Rotorkreis zaubern kann sieht schon sagenhaft aus. Vielleicht findet sich ja doch noch ein Rotorblatthersteller der diese Blätter bauen und verkaufen will ? Werner selbst ist nicht abgeneigt, sagt aber es wären zu viele Bauteile um es dann noch Gewinnbringend verkaufen zu können.<br />
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Laut seinen Aussagen hat er mit dem CFK am kämpfen. Das ist so leitfähig, dass fast alle Blätter nicht mehr richtig funktionieren. Die Blätter schaffen aber nun bewegte Bilder mit 64(bis 72) RGB LEDs und 512 Farben mit 796 Zeilen/Umdrehung. Dann ist aber auch die Entwicklung abgeschlossen. Einen Kleinwagen habe er dabei sicher schon verbraten.<br />
So oder so, das Ergebnis kann sich sehen lassen :) <br />
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Einen Baubericht hatten wir damals hier veröffentlicht: <a href="http://rc-nachtflug.blogspot.de/2012/10/eigenbau-rgb-grafik-rotorblatter.html">Klick</a><br />
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Steppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7564963523559490364.post-81610473370136810222013-05-04T15:44:00.000+02:002013-05-04T17:58:37.721+02:00Text-Blades von RCDEVHabe eine nette Baudokumentation zu Text-Rotorblättern gefunden, die scheinbar schon 2006 gebaut und geflogen wurden. Die gesamte Dokumentation beinhaltet sogar Schaltpläne, und scheinbar kann man die Software für dem µ-Controller herunterladen... nachbauen wäre also möglich : <a href="http://rcdev.blogspot.de/2009/06/blog-post.html">RCDEV-BLOG</a><br />
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Steppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7564963523559490364.post-1772997663258546422013-04-14T14:30:00.000+02:002013-04-14T20:00:49.875+02:00Beleuchtung 2013 - µ-Lightshow Layout überarbeitetHabe meine µ-Lightshow (RGB-Controller) überarbeitet.
Der Controller besteht nun aus 3 Platinen die aufeinander gesteckt sind.
Vorher war es eine "große" Platine mit einem externem MP3 Player<br />
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Hier mal der direkte Vergleich. Unten Prototyp I und oben Prototyp II :</div>
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Oben sitzt der MP3 Player, unten die Lichtorgel, mittig die digitale Auswertung mit 18 Ausgängen:</div>
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Auf folgendem Foto sieht man wie von der grünen Platine (MP3-Player) vier gelbe Leitungen weggehen. Am anderen Ende sind 2 Taster angelötet. Die originalen Taster des MP3 Players haben überhaupt nichts getaugt. Wenn man sie gedrückt hat, hat der MP3 Player meist überhaupt nicht reagiert. Das wäre zum Fliegen auf Veranstaltungen und Synchronisieren der Beleuchtung zur Musik total unbrauchbar. Also hab ich ein paar gescheite Micro-Taster angelötet und damit ich sie gut drücken kann, wenn alles im Heli verbaut ist, hab ich sie etwas mit Kabel verlängert:</div>
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Hier nur die Lichtorgel, habe sie LiOr² getauft :</div>
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Hier nur der MP3-Player + digitale Auswertung:</div>
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Das Ganze in Aktion:</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/_RcECiDXJg4" width="560"></iframe><br />
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<iframe frameborder="0" height="383" scrolling="no" src="http://www.myvideo.de/embed/8962691" style="border: 0px none; height: 383px; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 611px;" width="611"></iframe><br />
<a href="http://www.myvideo.de/watch/8962691/Lightshow_Lichtorgel_Wohnzimmer_Estero_Country_livin" title="µ-Lightshow Lichtorgel Wohnzimmer - Estero Country livin - MyVideo">µ-Lightshow Lichtorgel Wohnzimmer - Estero Country… - MyVideo</a><br />
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<iframe frameborder="0" height="383" scrolling="no" src="http://www.myvideo.de/embed/8962775" style="border: 0px none; height: 383px; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 611px;" width="611"></iframe><br />
<a href="http://www.myvideo.de/watch/8962775/Lightshow_Lichtorgel_Wohnzimmer_Soil_breaking_me_down" title="µ-Lightshow Lichtorgel Wohnzimmer - Soil breaking me down - MyVideo">µ-Lightshow Lichtorgel Wohnzimmer - Soil breaking … - MyVideo</a>Steppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7564963523559490364.post-28591011449867623382013-04-07T09:31:00.000+02:002013-04-08T10:07:36.960+02:00KSMACRO - NachtflughaubeHatte vor einigen Wochen ein paar nette Telefonate mit den Jungs von <a href="http://www.ksmacro.de/">http://www.ksmacro.de/</a><br />
Die hatten ein paar Fragen zu LED Technik usw. Nun haben sie eine GFK-Haube für ihre Helikoptermechanik (Luzifer) gebaut und <b><u>innen</u> </b>LEDs eingearbeitet.<br />
Schaut richtig heiß aus, mein Kompliment.<br />
Luzifer gibt es übrigens, laut Homepage, mittlerweile als Umbausatz zu kaufen...<br />
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Und so sieht das Teil tagsüber aus...</div>
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<a href="http://www.sabljo.de/bilder/ROTOR_LIVE_2013/rotor_live_2013-60.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="211" src="http://www.sabljo.de/bilder/ROTOR_LIVE_2013/rotor_live_2013-60.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />Steppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7564963523559490364.post-37352608321403712292013-03-23T16:40:00.004+01:002013-03-25T19:12:33.328+01:00JungfernflugGestern Abend hatte mein Heli Jungfernflug mit der neuen Beleuchtung. Wir waren 8 Personen. Alex hat einige Leute eingeladen, und seinen seinen Shoky mit Beleuchtung mitgebracht. Aber es war viel zu windig um dieses Styroding fliegen zu lassen. Mirko kam mit seinem 450er. Der ließ sich gerade noch so fliegen ;-) .Bei meinem Jungfernflug ging leider sehr viel schief. Erstmal war das Wetter alles andere als gut. Der Wind wehte dauerhaft mit 40km/h und es war noch dazu sau kalt. Ich hatte schwer zu kämpfen, 3D Kunstflug war wirklich sehr mühselig zu fliegen. Beim ersten Versuch ist erstmal der On/Off Stecker der Rotorblattbeleuchtung abgeflogen, und war nicht mehr auffindbar.<br />
Zum Glück hatte ich meine Werkzeugkiste und Alex ein Ladekabel dabei. So konnte ich von dem Ladekabel einen Stift abpetzen und so umbiegen, dass er in die On/Off Buchse passte.<br />
Es zog sich ziemlich hin, das schlechte Wetter drückte natürlich die Stimmung und ließ uns hektisch werden. Aus der Hektik heraus ist mir dann beim montieren der Haube auch an einem LED-Streifen ein Anschluss kaputt gegangen. Dann vergaß ich einem der Anwesenden meine Kamera in die Hand zu drücken, deshalb gibt es auch kein Video. Also, zweiter Versuch. Vor dem Flug haben wir die Musik in meinem KFZ angemacht und die Beleuchtung des Helis dazu synchronisiert. Kurz vor dem Abheben geht die Musik im KFZ aus, WARUM AUCH IMMER ?! Dann war es mir wirklich egal, ich wollte einfach nur diesen Flug machen. Ich hatte noch Akkus dabei, aber hatte dann wirklich keine Lust mehr zu fliegen.<br />
Die Beleuchtung der Landekufen ist viel zu grell, denke die werde ich in Zukunft entweder dimmen oder ganz weglassen. Die Heckfinne muss auf jeden Fall noch gedimmt werden. Beim nächsten mal geh ich fliegen wenn das Wetter besser ist, und mache auch auf jeden Fall ein Video.<br />
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Aber es hat sich trotz der Misserfolge gelohnt, denn es sind sehr viele sehr sehr schöne Fotos entstanden. Vielen Dank an Jan und Alex, meine Starfotografen ;-)<br />
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<br />Steppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7564963523559490364.post-944570952452976422013-03-09T14:19:00.002+01:002013-03-09T19:27:16.278+01:00RGB-LED-Rotorblatt-SimulatorUm die Software meines RGB-Blade-Controller, welcher meine LED-Rotorblätter ansteuert, am Schreibtisch testen zu können, habe ich mir letztes Jahr einen "Simulator" gebaut.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small; text-align: start;"><i>RGB-Blade-Controller</i></span></td></tr>
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Das ist ein kleiner Motor in einem Kunststoffgehäuse. An der Motorwelle ist der Controller montiert und ein RGB-LED-Streifen. Das ist so unwuchtig, dass es bei "hohen" Drehzahlen schnell in Resonanzen gerät. Aber zum testen reicht es :-) Die vielen langen Kabel wirken erstmal etwas abschreckend, müssen aber so lang sein, weil es ja nach dem Testen auch auf den Rotorkopf meines Helis montiert werden soll, und an die echten Rotorblätter angeschlossen werden muss.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Simulator</i></td></tr>
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Das Gehäuse wurde hier vorgestellt: <a href="http://rc-nachtflug.blogspot.de/2013/02/gehause-fur-rgb-blade-controller.html">Gehäuse</a><br />
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Den Umbau der Rotorblätter findet ihr hier: <a href="http://rc-nachtflug.blogspot.de/2013/03/beleuchtung-2013-690er-rgb-rotorblatter.html">RGB-Blades</a><br />
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Infos über den Controller: <a href="http://rc-nachtflug.blogspot.de/2012/08/eigenbau-rotorblatter-mit-rgb-leds.html">RGB-BLADE-CONTROLLER</a><br />
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Und hier der "Simulator" in Aktion:<br />
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<br />Steppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7564963523559490364.post-44758134506415494672013-03-01T06:56:00.002+01:002013-03-01T06:56:47.483+01:00Beleuchtung 2013 - 690er RGB Rotorblätter - UmbauFür meine Beleuchtung benötige ich nun noch LED-Rotorblätter. Ich will sie selbst umbauen und nicht fertig kaufen. Anleitungen findet man im Netz zu hauf, ich will aber nicht normale Blades mit einfarbigen LEDs bauen, sondern eben mit RGB-LEDs die dann von meinem Controller angesteuert werden.<br />
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Hier mal ein paar LED-Blades mit einfarbigen LEDs aus dem Netz:<br />
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Wie man sieht wurde einfach Kupferband aufgeklebt und dort wo die LEDs sitzen wurde es unterbrochen. Dann die LEDs aufgelötet und noch mit etwas Kleber zusätzlich festgeklebt.<br />
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Ich bin ähnlich vorgegangen. Zuerst habe mich Orientierungslinien mit Bleistift und einem langen Lineal auf die Blätter gezeichnet. Dann habe ich RGB-LED-Streifen aufgeklebt. Im Anschluss habe ich das Kupferband zurechtgeschnitten und aufgeklebt. Danach noch alles verlötet und zu guter Letzt alles in Schrumpfschlauch eingeschrumpft.<br />
Es sind insgesamt 5 Leiterbahnen mit Kupferband verlegt:<br />
+12V // G // R // B // 0V<br />
Die 0 Volt brauche ich nur an der Blattspitze für eine einfarbige LED (Bauform: 1206). Deren Strom kommt von den +12V und geht über einen Widerstand (ebenfalls 1206) durch die LED und dann über die breite Leiterbahn zurück. Diese LED an der Blattspitze ist dafür da, dass kein toter Sichtwinkel entstehen kann, wenn man das Modell genau auf Augenhöhe fliegt.<br />
Am anderen Blattende ist eine 5polige Buchsenleiste mit Rastermaß 2,54mm angelötet, diort wird dann der RGB-Blade Controller angeschlosssen.<br />
Am Ende wurden die Blätter noch ausgewuchtet.<br />
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Alles in allem wirklich kinderleicht so ein Umbau.<br />
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<br />Steppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7564963523559490364.post-56018855450455025992013-02-13T23:00:00.001+01:002013-05-08T14:55:12.169+02:00µ-Lightshow - weitere LeuchtprogrammeHabe für meinen RGB-Controller noch ein paar schöne Leuchteffekte programmiert, schaut super aus wie das Video zeigt. Habe aber noch ein paar gute Ideen zu weiteren Leuchteffekten, die ich noch kurzfristig programmieren werde.
Am Anfang des Videos sieht man auch, dass ich das Platinenlayout insgesamt überarbeitet habe, dazu gibt es dann einen extra Post.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/_RcECiDXJg4?rel=0" width="560"></iframe>Steppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7564963523559490364.post-24515892258000593302013-02-08T20:34:00.002+01:002013-02-13T22:50:33.094+01:00Nachtflugheli als WohnzimmerlampeHeute zeige ich mal was man mit einem Nachtflugheli noch so anstellen kann.<br />
Habe eine Halterung gebaut damit ich ihn im Wohnzimmer auf einer Vitrine platzieren kann. Nix besonderes, eine Holzplatte vom Dachboden und ein Stück Holz.<br />
Das Heckrohr zeigt über den PC. Die meine selbst gebaute Lichtsteuerung ist an den Audioausgang des PC's angeschlossen. Wenn ich Musik höre oder am PC Videos anschaue oder was auch immer, kann ich den Ton, am Heli sehen. Das ist der Hammer und sorgt für ein klasse Ambiente ;-) Eine solche RGB Beleuchtung hat, glaub ich, keiner bei sich Zuhause. Das Schöne an der Sache ist, man kann die Nachtflugbeleuchtung eben auch für andere Dinge nutzen, nicht nur zum Fliegen ;-)<br />
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Meine kleine Kreativecke im Wohnzimmer:</div>
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<iframe frameborder="0" height="383" scrolling="no" src="http://www.myvideo.de/embed/8962691" style="border: 0px none; height: 383px; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 611px;" width="611"></iframe><br />
<a href="http://www.myvideo.de/watch/8962691/Lightshow_Lichtorgel_Wohnzimmer_Estero_Country_livin" title="µ-Lightshow Lichtorgel Wohnzimmer - Estero Country livin - MyVideo">µ-Lightshow Lichtorgel Wohnzimmer - Estero Country… - MyVideo</a><br />
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<iframe frameborder="0" height="383" scrolling="no" src="http://www.myvideo.de/embed/8962775" style="border: 0px none; height: 383px; margin: 0; padding: 0; width: 611px;" width="611"></iframe><br />
<a href="http://www.myvideo.de/watch/8962775/Lightshow_Lichtorgel_Wohnzimmer_Soil_breaking_me_down" title="µ-Lightshow Lichtorgel Wohnzimmer - Soil breaking me down - MyVideo">µ-Lightshow Lichtorgel Wohnzimmer - Soil breaking … - MyVideo</a>Steppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7564963523559490364.post-78013313375066362752013-02-01T23:43:00.002+01:002013-02-05T10:52:20.924+01:00Gehäuse für RGB-BLADE ControllerEinen RGB-Blade Controller habe ich bereits letztes Jahr hergestellt. Der teilt die Rotorkeisfläche in verschiede Farbsegmente und schaltet die RGB-LEDs die ich auf den Rotorblättern angeklebt habe.<br />
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RGB-Blade Controller:</div>
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Und so sieht das aus wenn der Controller die Rotorblätter schön leuchten lässt:</div>
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Nun brauchte ich noch ein Gehäuse für den Controller und den Akku, dass man alles am Rotorkopf befestigen kann. Also habe ich mit Alex eines im CAD entworfen. Naja vielmehr hat Alex das Gehäuse entworfen und ich saß neben dran und hab ihn vollgelabert. Wie dem auch sei, heraus kam erstmal das hier:</div>
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<span style="text-align: left;"> I</span>ch hab Alex gesagt, er solle mir doch eine nackte 3D Frau oben drauf konstruieren :-) Naja am Ende wurde es halt: Quadratisch, praktisch....gut</div>
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Dann hat er wiederum sein Vitamin B spielen lassen und ein paar Tage später darf ich das gesinterte Kunstoffgehäuse mein Eigen nennen. Das ist echt STARK !</div>
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Nun kommt das erstmal über Nacht ins Wasser, so schließen sich die Poren.</div>
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Hier hab ich, mit doppelseitigem Schaumklebeband, den Akku auf den Controller geklebt und den Controller an den Deckel. Der Akku ist immer an die Platine angeschlossen. Den Controller kann ich aber von außen ein und ausschalten durch einen kleinen Jumper.<br />
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Als nächstes baue ich mir noch passende RGB-LED-Rotorblätter aus meinen 690er Spinblades...</div>
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<br />Steppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7564963523559490364.post-75317987358466864212013-01-26T08:10:00.001+01:002013-02-05T10:47:18.900+01:00Beleuchtung 2013: RGB-Kabinenhaube<b><u>RGB-LEDs in meine selbst hergestellte Kabinenhaube einarbeiten...</u></b><br />
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Ich hatte eucht in meinem letzten Blogpost die Herstellung meiner Kabinenhaube gezeigt, heute zeige ich wie ich in diese Haube Licht reinbringe. Wenn man auf die Kabinenhaube LEDs einfach nur von oben drauf klebt, ist das Licht sehr punktuell. Das wollte bei diesem Projekt vermeiden. Die Haube sollte ja etwas ganz Besonderes werden, so wäre es zu einfach gewesen, und das Winterprojekt soll ja nicht schon im Frühling fertig sein ;-) Im nächsten Schritt mussten also noch die RGB-LED-Streifen in irgend einer Form in die Haube eingearbeitet werden, damit die LEDs durch die Haube hindurch leuchten, wodurch das Licht gebrochen wird und sich etwas in der Haube verteilt. Ursprünglich wollte ich nun auf die Haubenhälften die LED-Streifen aufkleben und verdrahten, dann das ganze auf die Urform legen und nochmal eine weitere Polystyrolplatte darüber tief ziehen. So wären die LEDs und die Verdrahtung quasi zwischen zwei Polystyrolplatten eingebettet (Sandwichbauweise). </div>
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Hier mal eine Skizze wie ich mir das Gedacht habe:</div>
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Von dieser Idee bin ich aber weggekommen, da ich zum einen wahrscheinlich unschöne Lufteinschlüsse in der äußereren Haube bekommen hätte. Zum anderen habe ich gemerkt, dass genug Freiraum zwischen Haube und Chassis habe um die LEDs einfach von innen in die Haube einzukleben, ohne dass irgendwas mechanisch schleifen oder blockieren würde.</div>
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So nahm ich eine GFK-Matte, außerdem ein Reststück meines Polystyrols und ein paar LED-Streifen um mal zu testen ob das mit dem laminieren gut funktioniert und hält:</div>
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<a href="http://imageshack.us/a/img715/9720/sam0314v.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://imageshack.us/a/img715/9720/sam0314v.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Nun habe ich das noch mit RGB-LED-Streifen ausprobiert. Ich wollte mal sehen ob es einen Unterschied macht ob man die LEDs von innen mit GFK einlaminiert oder nur mit Epoxy einklebt.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uHuLm-PHR0E/UPHq3zE_J5I/AAAAAAAAA9I/RZ8ofIbkoW8/s1600/SAM_0340.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="293" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uHuLm-PHR0E/UPHq3zE_J5I/AAAAAAAAA9I/RZ8ofIbkoW8/s320/SAM_0340.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Man sieht sogar auf den Fotos, dass die 5 rechten LED-Streifen, die in GFK einlaminiert wurden, etwas besser das Licht verteilen. Während das Licht der linken 4 LEDs mehr punktuell ist.<br />
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Das liegt daran, dass beim laminieren des GFK ein geringer Luftspalt entstanden ist, wodurch sich das Licht mehr verteilen konnte. Hier auf der Skizze angedeutet im Querschnitt:</div>
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Ich habe mich dann dazu entschieden, die LED-Streifen einfach nur von innen in meine Haube einzukleben. Vor allem wegen dem Gewicht, denn das GFK würde ja auch nochmal etwas wiegen. Also erstmal alle Streifen passend zugeschnitten provisorisch und mit Tesa befestigt. Das sind übrigens fast 5 Meter RGB-LED-Streifen allein in der Haube :-)</div>
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Darauf hin habe ich alles verdrahtet und montiert. Interessant finde ich den Blickwinkel. Sind genial geworden die Fotos. Oder habt ihr schon mal eine halbierte LED-Haube gesehen, bei der ihr die Innereien des Helis begutachten konntet und gleichzeitig die Beleuchtung :-) ?</div>
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Und nun folgen meine Lieblingsfotos beim Funktionstest :-)</div>
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Auf diesen Fotos wirkt die Haube noch sehr groß, weil sie noch gar nicht zusammengeklebt war:</div>
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Ein Video des ersten Funktionstests:</div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">Nachdem ich mein Werk Tage lang bewundert und bestaunt habe ;-) , bin ich auch mal her gegangen und habe markante Stellen an denen Bruchgefahr der Haube besteht, mit GFK verstärkt. Also vor allem an den Befestigungslöchern. Aber auch unten und am Landegestellt als auch oben wo die Taumelscheibe sitzt. Man muss die Haube </span><span style="text-align: center;">weit auseinander biegen beim montieren/demontieren am Heli, </span><span style="text-align: center;">weil sie hinten sehr eng am Chassis anliegt. Daher besteht an manchen Biegestellen besonders Bruchgefahr.</span><br />
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Unten am Landegestell, GFK verstärkt, mit 48er Matten<br />
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um die Taumelscheibe, GFK verstärkt, ebenfalls mit 48er Matten</div>
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Außerdem habe ich die LEDs mit Kunststoffkleber von innen eingeklebt und danach die beiden Haubenschalen zusammengeklebt. Die Klebenaht der beiden Schalen hält super. Habe auch mehrere Kunsstoffkleber vorher ausprobiert. Ich wollte ja nicht riskieren dass die Haube im Flug auseinander reißt :)</div>
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Das Endergebnis schaut dann so aus, angesteuert von meine RGB-Controller. Das ist mal ein ganz besonderer Compass 7HV :-) </div>
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<a href="http://www.myvideo.de/watch/8930420/Lightshow_Lichtorgel_Compass_7HV" title="µ-Lightshow Lichtorgel Compass 7HV - MyVideo">µ-Lightshow Lichtorgel Compass 7HV - MyVideo</a><br />
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Da man die ganze Beleuchtung innerhalb weniger Sekunden montieren/demontieren kann wird der Heli nun im Wohnzimmer als "Lampe" benutzt. Ich werde meinen Controller einfach an die Musikanlage/ Fernseher anschließen. So habe ich das ganze Jahr was davon und nicht nur wenn ich zum Nachtfliegen gehe. Meine Frau hat schon eingewilligt ;-)Steppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7564963523559490364.post-6698305875480283172013-01-18T23:50:00.000+01:002013-01-19T08:49:01.331+01:00Preview: RGB-Kabinenhaube Solch einen Blickwinkel habt ihr bestimmt noch nie genießen können :-)<br />
Heute gibt es ein kleines Preview zu meiner RGB-Kabinenhaube. Habe die RGB-LEDs bisher nur provisorisch mit Tesa <b><u>in</u></b> der Haube befestigt, aber dafür schon alles verdrahtet. Es sind schon ein paar sehr schöne Fotos dabei raus gekommen, die ich gern mal zeigen möchte. Einen ausführlichen Bericht gibt es demnächst, aber das sieht doch schon sehr vielversprechend aus...<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/238Obg4O9S4" width="560"></iframe>Steppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7564963523559490364.post-49320018634495064192013-01-13T08:26:00.001+01:002013-01-18T16:33:16.234+01:00Beleuchtung 2013: Kabinenhaube tiefziehenHallo Leser,<br />
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heute schreibe ich Euch von meiner selbst angefertigten RGB-LED-Haube für meinen Compass 7HV.<br />
Da das als Winterprojekt angedacht war, und deutsche Winter sehr lange sein können, hab ich mir vorgenommen mal eine Kabinenhaube selbst herzustellen. Also vom Urmodell bis zur fertigen Haube, in welche ich die LEDs einarbeiten wollte. Außerdem wollte ich gern mal das Tiefziehen von Kunststoffen ausprobieren.<br />
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<u><b>Das Urmodell aus Styrodur:</b></u><br />
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Das Design der Haube habe ich an das Original angelehnt, es sollte aber größer und "fleischiger" sein, damit ich möglichst viele LEDs aufbringen kann. Also habe ich ein Bild genommen und es etwas am PC bearbeitet um mir erstmal eine Idee zu verschaffen wie es aussehen könnte. Das sah dann so aus, oben das Orignal unten die 7HV SE (Steppo Edition) ;-)<br />
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Erstmal habe ich mir die Silouette auf einem Blatt Papier aufgemalt, die es später haben sollte. Im Anschluss musste ich herausfinden ob meine Fertigkeiten als Modellierer überhaupt ausreichend sind um ein Urmodell aus Styrodur selbst herzustellen. Es handelt sich hierbei nämlich um mein Erstlingswerk. Also habe ich die Silouette auf den Styrodurklotz übertragen und dann habe ich ihn mit dem Messer grob bearbeitet:<br />
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Darauf folgend habe ich es mit Schmirgelpapier solange bearbeitet bis mir die Form gefallen hat. Das hat einige Stunden gedauert:</div>
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Wie man auf den Fotos erkennen kann, musste ich 2 Styrodurplatten übereinander kleben, weil eine einzelne nicht ausreichend dick genug war. Das sollte sich später als großer Nachteil herausstellen, denn die Form war nur für wenige Tiefziehaktionen zu gebrauchen.</div>
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Generell ist Styrodur leider überhaupt nicht zum Tiefziehen geeignet, daher musste ich die Form mit Wandfarbe anstreiche,n um sie Temperaturbeständig zu machen. Im Anschluss habe ich die zweite Urformschale hergestellt. Auf dem Foto ist sie gerade noch am trocknen, hinterher habe ich sie noch etwas mit Schmirgelpapier bearbeitet:</div>
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<b><u>Tiefziehen:</u></b></div>
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Nun konnte es ans Tiefziehen gehen, dafür musste ich mir einen Ofen und einen Vakuum-Tiefziehkiste bauen.</div>
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Außerdem einen Rahmen in der zu verformende Kunststoff eingespannt werden konnte. </div>
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Hier ist erstmal der Holzrahmen mit einer eingespannten Polystyrolplatte:</div>
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Folgend der "Ofen" mit zwei Elektrogrills und einer Styrowärmedämmung, damit sich die heiße Luft anstauen und das Polystyrol erhitzen kann:</div>
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Hier der "Ofen" mit dem Rahmen und dem Kunststoff der sich gerade erhitzt wie man an der Verformung erkennen kann:</div>
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Und hier ist meine Vakuumtiefziehkiste. Darauf liegt die Urform meiner Kabinenhaube. Für genügend Unterdruck sorgen 2 Staubsauger (rechts und links unten im Bild zu sehen) :</div>
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Alles zusammen:</div>
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Das Ergebnis:</div>
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<b><u>Rückschläge bei der Fertigung:</u></b></div>
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Leider war meine Urform aus Styrodur nur für 2 Tiefziehaktionen zu gebrauchen, weil ich, wie oben erwähnt, zwei Styrodurplatten übereinander kleben musste damit sie dick genug war. Genau an der Klebestelle hat sie sich wieder etwas auseinander gedrückt. Aber zum Glück im Unglück sind die ersten Hauben was geworden. So habe ich die aus Polystyrol tief gezogene Haube mit Alabastergips ausgegossen um eine Kopie meiner Urform herzustellen:</div>
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Nachdem es ca. 4 Tage am trocknen war, wollte ich endlich weiter machen. Zu vorschnell wie sich herausstellte, denn die Gipsformen waren noch nicht ganz trocken. So kam es, dass der heiße Kunststoff beim tiefziehen die Gipsform kurzzeitig so stark erhitzte, dass dieser Wasserdampf freisetzte, was zu Blasenbildung führte. Schrecklich sowas zu sehen nachdem man sich soviel Aufwand gemacht hat:</div>
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Also musste ich doch noch ein paar Tage warten, bis die Form richtig trocken geworden ist.</div>
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Aber das warten hat sich gelohnt, denn die erste Haube war für meine Ansprüche gut genug geworden. </div>
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Wie in die Haube dann noch Licht reinkommt, erfahrt ihr in meinem nächsten Blogpost innerhalb kommenden Wochen. Eins kann ich schon verraten, es wird so RICHTIG hell :-)</div>
Steppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7564963523559490364.post-900414602291626982013-01-01T11:37:00.002+01:002013-01-18T16:32:01.811+01:00Beleuchtung 2013: RGB-Heckrohr<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Frohes Neues !</div>
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Heut gibt es einen tollen ausführlichen Bericht zu meiner Heckrohrbeleuchtung. </div>
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Von nun an könnt ihr mich auch den <u><i>"Erfinder des Schrumpfschlauchs auf dem Heckrohr</i>"</u> nennen :-)</div>
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Mein Ziel war es, meine 6 RGB Kanäle meines selbstgebauten RGB-Controllers sinnvoll auf dem Heckrohr auszunutzen.Also habe ich 6 RGB Kanäle auf dem Heckrohr zwei mal in Reihe geschaltet. Insgesamt gehen 21 Anschlussleitungen mit 0,14mm² zum Heckrohr. Den 21 poligen Anschlussstecker habe ich selbst angefertigt, aus drei Stiftleisten mit Rastermaß 2,54mm. Das sind 6 mal Rot, sechs mal Grün, sechs mal Blau, zwei mal +12V, außerdem ein mal 0V für die Heckfinne.</div>
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Stecker-Pinbelegung:</div>
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<b><u>So hab ich es gemacht:</u></b><br />
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Ich habe meine Herstellungsmethode für LED-Heckrohre absolut perfektioniert, Nachmachen ist erwünscht!</div>
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Zuerst habe ich einen Schrumpfschlauch über das Heckrohr gestülpt und diesen eingeschrumpft.</div>
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Danach habe ich die LED-Streifen in 120° Anordnung auf den Schrumpfschlauch aufgeklebt. Nach dem Verdrahten habe ich einen weiteren Schrumpfschlauch über alles drüber gezogen und geschrumpft. Damit man alles auch vom Heckrohr problemlos abnehmen kann, habe ich nun noch einen langen Schnitt in beide Schläuche mit einem Skalpell gemacht. Damit ihr das leichter nachvollziehen könnt habe ich auf die Schnelle eine kleine Skizze meiner Herstellungsmethode gemalt:</div>
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Auf diesen Fotos sieht man die Schnittkante sehr gut:</div>
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Im Anschluss habe ich die beiden Schläuche noch mit etwas Tesa Klebestreifen an der Schnittkante verklebt, damit der innere und der äußere Schlauch fest miteinander verklebt sind.</div>
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Montieren/Demontieren dauert so nicht mal 30sec.</div>
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Befestigt wird es einfach mit ein paar Kabelbindern, damit es richtig fest hält.</div>
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Hier ein Bild auf dem man es im demontierten Zustand sieht:</div>
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Durch die 120° Anordnung der LED-Streifen auf dem Heckrohr ergibt sich automatisch kein toter Sichtwinkel für den Piloten, denn die LEDs haben einen Abstrahlwinkel von 120°. </div>
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Es befinden sich insgesamt 3 x 12 RGB-Streifen auf dem Heckrohr, also insgesamt 36 Stück. Das Verdrahtungsschema von links nach rechts sieht man auf folgendem Bild. Wie man sofort sieht, habe ich alle sechs RGB-Kanäle zwei mal auf dem Heckrohr hintereinander geschaltet.</div>
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So sieht es aus wenn mein RGB-Controller es ansteuert:</div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">Das ist alles natürlich sehr schön anzusehen, hat aber seinen Preis: Das Gewicht. </span><br />
<span style="text-align: center;">Denn die Heckrohrbeleuchtung wiegt 85g. Ehrlich gesagt habe ich mit viel mehr gerechnet. </span><br />
<span style="text-align: center;">Wenn ich aber bedenke, dass der Steuercontroller auch nochmal 160g wiegt und die Haubenbeleuchtung noch fehlt, schätze ich großzügig, dass ich am Ende bei 0,5kg Zuladung für meine 700er Heli bin. Das wären 10% des Abfluggewichts. Ich bin aber recht zuversichtlich, dass ich das mit ausreichend Drehzahl so kompensieren kann, dass der Heli immer noch mehr als genug Power für 3D Kunstflug haben wird ;-)</span><br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">Gruß</span><br />
<span style="text-align: center;">Stefan</span>Steppohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11937160849155788459noreply@blogger.com4